The following day 3-5 summary was written by Sophia Ariza, my travel companion. Thank you Soph!
Nagaur Day #3
After 2 hour drive through camels and opiates we turn left, pass a guard and all of a sudden we are inside of an old palace. With workers coming and going I don't understand really what we are doing there. As we get to the other side, the guard opens my door and they saw "welcome". Welcome to where? Well inside this 15th cty lil palace they have now restored the wives living quarters to ...yes our bedrooms. Its a very old and quiet place so after our luggage is settled we sneak out to peak around and figure out what In the world is this place.
Well its the Maharaja of Jodhpur's little hobby of a guest house. Recently opened a year ago you can tell that the staff still are not used to dealing directly with the guests. The quirk to this place is that it is super old and practically untouched besides the restoration. All rooms are exactly the same as they have been for centuries. No wall torn down to make bigger rooms or broken tile to put in the modern age of plumbing and electricity. It was all done from below the palace. Quite intricate I must say. So the Maharaja's friends stay here and if you're not one, he must approve ur stay anyway. Yes- we are cool like that.
After our light lunch we meet our guide who speaks very little english to show us the actual palace side. A maze here a maze there and all of a sudden these palatial grounds turn alive with fountains, pools, dancing quarters, spas and shall I go on!?!
After partition the british decided to replaster all the walls white and make this palace some sort of office center for their army. They practically destroyed all the frescoes and "water technology" they had for a couple of years and then abandoned it. Then in the early 90's Lady H from England and the Getty Foundation decide to do a fixer upper beyond imagination. Almost 25 years in, you can see the before and after pictures that thrill you to see how far they will come in another 10yrs!
All in all amazing and can't wait for a spa and some more restoration to be completed. This hidden gem will be placed soon enough on the map.
Mihi Garh- Day #4
After our heavy Rajistahani dinner we opt for the mindful fresh fruit and lassi for breakfast for our roadtrip to the Umaid Bhawan Palace of Jodhpur. This still living palace of a grand a night (starting) had been just finished before parition of '48 so this baby is "new" for a palace. We took a peak at the 50's looking Maharani and Maharaja suite ($8k+/nt) where royalty like Bill Gates and the Brangelinas stay. Personally I liked the "standard" room with more modern facilities but history sells. After the walks through the gardens and inviting pool we have lunch on the terrace with a view of the Maharaja's old palace and town. Man was I happy we ate light bc we accidentally said yes to all their options not knowing what we were saying yes to!! So out came saffron chicken, the most amazing shrubs called kai sangri dahk, okra, poli rice something. We were bombarded left and right! Great for a 2hr ride to the dessert.
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Now this place, is a lost for words. In the MIDDLE OF NO WHERE we arrive to a town called Rohet Garh, grab a lead car and drive into more no where and arrive to Mihi Garh- Fortress of the Sun. Let me just say Jaw Dropping. This is definitely not ur idea of busy India. Every detail and idea of this "fort" has been dreamed by Siddarth and his royal family then produced by all local carpenters and metal masters. I want to pick it up and re plant this in SD. We get a quick tour and take as many Architectural Digest pictures as possible before our afternoon tour.
Time for our People Safari to visit the Bishna people. This small tribe are animal lovers whose purpose is to live from the land and protect its animals. We meet their 85yr old leader who gives us permission to enter his village where he lives with his 4 sons, their wives and 29 grandchildren. All have their duties and purpose and everything is worked out down to the "T". These Bishnas have been living like this for centuries and will continue to do so as they seem happy, healthy and stress free. Looks like a recipe for success to me. Later we continue to a larger farming community where their larger acreage has given them computers, tv's and full kitchens. "We have a surprise for you" our guide says. We walk into a Brahmen house and on the floor they are preparing a concoction of opium. Why the hell not. (Actually I'm freaking out on the inside since that last time I had any sort of illegal substance was over 10yrs ago. (Did I just date myself?)
After some formalities, its time to slurp the opium tea from this dirty mans hand, 3 times and the louder the better! Here we go. I'm done. Gigi continues and here I am waiting for a reaction. "Cigarette?" Why not! Hell I just had some opium. Now I'm not sure if I feel a bit light headed bc of the poppy or the very natural looking stoggie. Nope- don't feel a thing. Ok let's go back to our sun fort.
We arrive just as they are praying the "Arti" thanking krishna for their perfect day. We walk to the outdoor living room to have a G+T and watch how the day turns into pitch black. We meet Siddarth and this groovy old couple who seem like fancy hippies who had a bit too much of that natural ciggie (well the wife did for sure). Time for our rooftop dinner where more food poured out as the moon came up to light everything up as if it were day. Magical.
Reet gives us the 411 on Brahmens, Saddhu's that threaten people with the curse of the snake for $$ and all the sad corruption among them. So sad but its everywhere.
At 645am I gladly wake up to a breathtaking sunrise. After the billionth picture Gigi my yoga master leads us through chaturangas and crescent moons on our terrace with plunge pool may I add. Pack up our bags and opt for a "light" breakfast of fruit. Then they entice us with more quesadilla type looking things, croissants, muffins, bacon, hashbrowns...you get the point.
Chhatra Sagar Day #5
It was hard to leave Mihi Garh, but knowing Reet, we knew that what ever he had planned next would be good. And yup! He was right. About a 2 hour drive west in to greener country we arrive to the base of Chhatra Sagar in Nimaj.
Up the slate steps we go and bam I felt as if I were in Kenya. A massive lake with antelopes crossing as the ducks move out out of the way. Thousands of demoiselle cranes flying above us migrating to their next feeding ground. This old hunting lodge has now been turned into a seasonal 13 tent Nature lovers paradise. Only open October thru March to make sure the crisp air is at its best. Being mid November the owner Harsh comments how in deed winter has not arrived yet as the sun is still beating down quite a bit.
We sit to have lunch on their terrace overlooking said lake. Served hand and foot by their very well trained staff from the past 12 years they have been open. Reet is good friends with these pair good looking brothers and has his favorite dish of spicy lamb made just for him. I'm seeing big smiles and big portions yet again! Along this trip my friend Hashim has been a faithful virtual companion sharing and exchanging thoughts on this adventure. One of his suggestions among the many is to try Bhang and Paan. So as we enjoy more shrubs and lamb I ask to try this dish called Bhang. Well, let's just say Reet had a hard time keeping his food down. So Bhang means to "get high". Thanks Doc :/ Joke is on me.
After the laughs we go on our Indian Safari to see the local village. First stop is their farm where crops of cumin, barley, chilies and annis are well taken care of. The working farmer who is in charge of each crop will charge 20% of the crop so that is their incentive as well. The old man turbined in white looked so peaceful there squatting under his nitrous tree looking as his crop grows.
We continued on to see the village where city planning was thought out like Manhattan. All based on how the wind blows and who needs to be closest. Leather and textiles on one side, pottery and silver on the other and beautiful children running around with the local goat who acts like a dog jumping around. In this town no one "sells" anything. Its done the old way of bartering. You give me a clay pot, I'll fix your door. 2000 ppl live together very happy.
After a good night sleep we wake up to coffee and cookies africa style and watch the sunrise over the mountains at 7am. Our activity was writing postcards to you guys but now it seems we can't find them. Sorry!
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